Thursday, November 29, 2012

November Rain


At the beginning of the November I was thrilled to welcome my sister and her fiancé to Taipei. Not only was it great to see and spend time with them but their visit also allowed me to test my tour-guide skills as well as to cross a few things off of my list of things-to-do in Taipei. I wanted to ensure that Carrie and Steve were able to experience as much of Taipei as possible during their short visit and I think I did a pretty good job helping them to see and taste the best of Taipei.

Steamed pork
On the first day of their visit we had lunch at a renowned beef-noodle restaurant. I had been told about this restaurant by friends several times in the past and Carrie, too, had it recommended by a Taiwanese friend in Vancouver. We waited in a short line for seats before placing our orders for three of the famous noodle soups and a side dish of steamed pork. The soup, lived up to the hype and the melt-in-your-mouth tenderness of the beef was an experience in-itself. Beef-noodle soup was just one of the many taiwanese delicacies sampled by my visitors.

We also had lunch at one of Taiwan's most famous eateries: Din Tai Fung. Din Tai Fung is an international dumpling restaurant with branches in 10 countries. I've been wanting to try their highly acclaimed soup-dumplings, since I first arrived in Taipei but I have never built up the nerve to brave to long lines for seats. We chose to go to DTF's original branch, the place where it all started, nearly 30 years ago. Our wait was only about half-an-hour, during which we were able to pr-order our meal and stroll around the neighbourhood.

After we were seated we were quickly served our order of the renowned Xiaolongbao (小籠包) accompanied by some zhengjiao and sesame noodles. Both the service and food were exceptional, especially the soup-dumplings for which they gained their reputation. Although an excellent dining experience overall, I have to concede that xiaolongbao can be purchased at a variety of family-run restaurants in Taipei and given the high-price of the food and the rushed atmosphere of the service, I believe the smaller, hole in the wall places offer an equal, if not better, meal option.

Carrie and Steve did an excellent job covering all bases of Taiwanese food. Their list of foods eaten included:


Iron eggs (鐵蛋), stinky tofu (臭豆腐), mapo tofu, pepper buns, hotdog in a hotdog (大腸包小腸), green onion pancakes, xiaolongbao (小籠包), Taiwan beer, re-chao (熱炒) restaurant food, beef noodle, pork bloodsicle (豬血糕), 3cup chicken, chive bread, pineapple cakes, tea eggs, pan fried buns, ice-cream + shaved peanut pancake, bubble tea and a mountain of mango shaved ice.
In addition to the restaurants visited, Carrie and Steve were also able to see most the major sights in Taipei as well as a couple of my favorite watering holes (some of which are 7-11s).


I was sad to see them go as after just 4 busy days they were on their way to Bangkok to enjoy the rest of their vacation. I thoroughly enjoyed having them here and getting to show them around this city that I've come to love.  I am now eagerly awaiting my next visitors from home, so.......book your tickets.
The weather has taken a slight turn for the worse lately. The coming of winter has brought along cold and rain; weather that reminds me of home. As a result of the less pleasant weather I have been spending a lot of my time visiting some of Taipei's many museums.



I started off with the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) which s housed in an old school built in the Japanese colonial period.  I found the exhibitions of the museum to be, for the most part, creepy, weird, experimental art.

Next I went to the Taipei Fine-art Museum (T-FAM). T-FAM is huge and altogether very enjoyable. The museum is also home to the Taiwan Excellence Center which exhibits Taiwanese innovation and domestically produced products.


The next museum I explored was the Taiwan Astronomy Museum. Admittedly, the museum was geared towards children, however, I'm still a kid at heart so I had a fun time browsing the exhibits and playing with the interactive displays despite the lack of English information.

I also took a ride on their "educational space simulator" which may be the worst ride I have ever been on. Not only was it boring, but to make up for lack of pace of the ride they compensated by having the cars do a great deal of spinning, as if intended to increase the excitement. It was a nauseating 15 minutes that left me feeling not-well for the rest of the afternoon.


The final museum that I visited was the 228 Museum. The museum is named for a political protest movement which began on February 28th 1947, and resulted in 40 years of marshal law, human rights crimes, and political suppression. The museum focused on the events leading up to 228 and commemorated the subsequent atrocities which followed. The museum was well presented but suffered again from a lack of English information available.



On top of the museums, I also visited some other popular attractions. I headed to Taipei's downtown airport, Songshan Airport, to check out it's outdoor "airport observatory". The observatory allowed me to take some photos of airplanes but apart from that it was not entirely worth a visit.
I also took a look around Taipei's most famous luxury hotel; the Grand. The Grand Hotel is an incredibly lavish hotel housed in a massive complex styled in a grandiose traditional Chinese complex.


Situated only a short walk away from the hotel is the National Revolutionary Martyr's memorial. The memorial honours those who died fighting for the Republic of China, both before and after the ROC existed solely in Taiwan. I had a chance to watch the changing of the guards and I navigated my way through a maze of Japanese and Korean tourists to have a pleasant view of the beautiful architecture of the memorial.


The temperature have begun to drop here in Taipei and given the evident lack of central heating here it is very noticeable.   I've had to invest in a new blanket and several long-sleeved shirts to prepare for the 'chill' of a Taiwanese winter. 

I've been in Taipei for about 8 months now and, as much of a cliche as it is, I can't believe how quickly the time has passed.   This is now the longest I've been away from home for, narrowly edging out my travels from last year.    I'll be spending the holiday season here and although I'm told that Christmas is not widely celebrated here, most stores had their Christmas displays up the day after Halloween.   While I don't know yet what I will do to celebrate Christmas day, I will be welcoming my parents to Taiwan on December 28th so I think Christmas will just have to come a little late this year for me.

Thursday, November 1, 2012

October




Another month has slipped away already, making it a total of 7 months that have rapidly flown by since I arrived in Taipei.

The coming of Canadian Thanksgiving gave me an excuse to celebrate and cook what has been the only western style meal I've prepared since my arrival in Taipei. My Thanksgiving feast was comprised of rosemary and oregano spiced broiled chicken legs, garlic-butter broccoli and coconut-cream mashed sweet potatoes all topped with home-made gravy. It was pretty good, if I may say so myself, but I'm sure it was nothing compared to the gourmet spread that my mother served at home. The standard seasonal pumpkin beer was unfortunately unavailable here. I was however treated to an 18% alc stout (the strongest beer I've had) which rounded off the holiday weekend nicely.





Thanksgiving was the first of three holidays that I celebrated during the month of October, the second being Taiwan National Day. Double 10 day as it is known here (falling on October 10th), the national holiday is celebrated with a large parade through the center of the city and a presidential address, all of which, I slept through as the holiday meant I had the day off work. Apart from the official government celebrations, the holiday is not widely celebrated. Taiwan's history and confusing political status have many wondering what they have to celebrate. The holiday commemorates the overthrowing of the Qing Dynasty and subsequent founding of the Republic of China, neither of which occurred in what is now referred to as Taiwan.
Nonetheless, I used my day-off to stroll around the flag adorned city.



A couple of weeks ago, a park very near to my house hosted a free concert for the Daniel Pearl Day of Music. Apparently, the free concerts are held around the world in memory of an American journalist who was killed in Pakistan. The absence of public drinking laws here meant the concert was a nice place to have a few cheap beers while listening to live music.


A highlight of my past month was claiming my receipt lottery winnings. The lottery draws take place every 2 months and all receipts here have a valid number. When I checked my numbers last month I was pleased to find that I had won $2600NT ($86CAD)! I didn't want to get my hopes too high until I claimed the cash just in-case I had somehow misread the numbers. I now have my winnings and I am eagerly awaiting the next lottery draw.

I recently chose to increase my experience with odd-foods. Unlaid eggs(eggs from inside a slaughtered chicken), are a fairly common nightmarket food here. The eggs, which just consist of yolks, tasted much like a normal egg but had a much chalkier texture that made it pretty gross to eat.


The third and most important holiday I celebrated in October was, of course, Halloween. I've always loved Halloween so I was anxious to see to what extent Halloween is celebrated here in Taiwan. Costumed party-goers filled most bars and nightclubs on this past Saturday night and I was among them. Dressed as a panda, I partied throughout the night. Not to have my Halloween Panda-monium limited to a single outing, I was out for another wild night on Wednesday. I had an excellent Halloween and I would have to say that Taiwan ranks pretty highly among the 5 countries in which I have now celebrated Halloween.

This weekend, my sister and her fiance will be coming to visit. I am really looking forward to seeing them and guiding them around this great city.

The following photos are from a religious procession near my apartment: